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the hot springs in Virginia. In this bath which had been prepared by the Indians by stoping the
run with stone and gravel, I baithed and remained in 19 minutes, it was with dificulty I could
remain thus long and it caused a profuse sweat two other bold springs adjacent to this are much
warmer, their heat being so great as to make the hand of a person smart extreemly when
immerced. ... both the men and indians amused themselves with the use of a bath this evening.
I observed that the indians after remaining in the hot bath as long as they could bear it ran and
plunged themslves into the creek the water of which is now as cold as ice can make it; after
remaining here a few minutes they returned again to the warm bath, repeating this transision
several times but always ending with the warm bath.
June 30, 1806
William Clark
Weather Diary
Decended the mountain to Travellers rest leaveing these tremendious mountains behind us, in
passing of which we have experienced cold and hunger of which I shall ever remember. ... our
food was horses of which we eate three.
July 1, 1806
William Clark
On Clark's River
the party who will accompany Capt L. is G. Drewyer, Sergt. Gass, Jo. and R. Fields, Frazier
& Werner, and Thompson Goodrich & McNear[l] as far as the Falls of Missouri at which place
the 3 latter will remain untill I send down the Canoes from the head of Jeffersons river. they
will then join that party and after passing the portage around the falls, proceed on down to the
enterance of Maria where Capt. Lewis will join them after haveing assended that river as high
up as Latd. 50 North. from the head of Jeffersons river I shall proceed on to the head of the
Rockejhone [i.e., Yellowstone] with a party of 9 or 10 men and desend that river. from the R
Rockejhone I shall dispatch Sergt. Pryor with the horses to the Mandans and from thence to the
Tradeing Establishments of the N.W.Co. on the Assinniboin River with a letter which we have
written for the purpose to engage Mr. H. Haney to endeaver to get some of the principal Chiefs
of the Scioux to accompany us to the Seat of our government &c. we divide the Loading and
apportion the horses. Capt. L. only takes 17 horses with him, 8 only of which he intends to
take up the Maria &c.
July 2, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
in the evening the indians run their horses, and we had several foot races betwen the natives and
our party with various success. ... Goodrich and McNeal are both very unwell with the pox
which they contracted last winter with the Chinnook women this forms my inducement
principally for taking them to the falls of the Missouri where during an interval of rest they can
use the murcury freely. ... the musquetoes have been excessively troublesome to us since our
arrival at this place.
July 3, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
I took leave of my worthy friend and companion Capt. Clark and the party that accompanyed
him. I could not avoid feeling much concern on this occasion although I hoped this seperation
was only momentary. ... they (Indians) alledged that as the road was a well beaten track we
could not now miss our way and as they were affraid of meeting with their enimies the
Minnetares they could not think of continuing with us any longer, ... I directed the hunters to
... indeavour to kill some more meat for these people whom I was unwilling to leave without
giving them a good supply of provision after their having been so obliging as to conduct us
through those tremendious mountains. the musquetoes were so excessively troublesome this
evening that we were obliged to kindle large fires for our horses these insects torture them in
such manner untill they placed themselves in the smoke of the fires that I realy thought they
would become frantic.
July 4, 1806
William Clark
This being the day of the decleration of Independence of the United States and a Day commonly
scelebrated by my Country I had every disposition to selebrate this day and therefore halted
early and partook of a Sumptious Dinner of a fat Saddle of Venison and Mush of Cows (roots)
after Dinner we proceeded on ...
July 7, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
Reubin Fields wounded a moos deer this morning near our camp. my dog much worried. [by
the moose. --Ed.] ... after we encamped Drewyer killed two beaver and shot a third which bit
his knee very badly and escaped.
July 8, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
much rejoiced at finding ourselves in the plains of the Missouri which abound with game.
July 11, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
it is now the season at which the buffaloe begin to coppelate and the bulls keep a tremendious
roaring we could hear them for many miles and there are such numbers of them that there is one
continual roar. our horses had not been acquainted with the buffaloe they appeared much
allarmed at their appearance and bellowing. when I arrived in sight of the white-bear Islands the
missouri bottoms on both sides of the river were crouded with buffaloe I sincerely beleif that
there were not less than 10 thousand buffaloe within a circle of 2 miles arround that place.
I then set all hands to prepare two canoes the one we made after the mandan fassion with a
single skin in the form of a bason and the other we constructed of two skins on a plan of our
own. we were unable to compleat our canoes this evening.
July 15, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
a little before dark McNeal returned with his musquet broken off at the breach, and informed me
that on his arrival at willow run [on the portage] he had approached a white bear within ten feet
without discover[ing] him the bear being in the thick brush, the horse took the allarm and
turning short threw him immediately under the bear; this animal raised himself on his hinder feet
for battle, and gave him time to recover from his fall which he did in an instant and with his
clubbed musquet he struck the bear over the head and cut him with the guard of the gun and
broke off the breech, the bear stunned with the stroke fell to the ground and began to scratch his
head with his feet; this gave McNeal time to climb a willow tree which was near at hand and
thus fortunately made his escape. the bear waited at the foot of the tree untill late in the evening
before he left him, when McNeal ventured down and caught his horse which had by this time
strayed off to the distance of 2 Ms. and returned to camp. these bear are a most tremenduous
animal; it seems that the hand of providence has been most wonderfully in our favor with
rispect to them, or some of us would long since have fallen a sacrifice to their farosity. there
seems to be a sertain fatality attatched to the neighbourhood of these falls, for there is always a
chapter of accedents prepared for us during our residence at them.
July 17, 1806
William Clark
Buffalow is getting much more plenty than they were above ... passed this evening an Indian
fort ... the Squaw informs me that when the war parties (of Minnit. Crows &c. who fight
Shoshonees) find themselves pursued they make those forts to defend themselves in from the
pursuers whose superior numbers might otherwise over power them and cut them off without
receiveing much injurey on horsback &c.
July 18, 1806
William Clark
Shabono was thrown from his horse to day in pursute of a Buffaloe, the ho[r]se unfortunately
steping into a Braroe hole fell and threw him over his head. he is a good deel brused on his hip
sholder & face. ... I observed a Smoke rise to the S.S.E in the plains towards the termonation
of the rocky mountains in that direction (which is covered with snow) this Smoke must be
raisd. by the Crow Indians in that direction as a Signal for us, or other bands. ... Gibson in
attemptint to mount his horse after Shooting a deer this evening fell and on a Snag and sent it
nearly (two) inches into the Muskeler part of his ty. he informs me this snag was about 1 inch
in diameeter burnt at the end. this is a very bad wound and pains him exceedingly. I dressed the
wound.
July 20, 1806
William Clark
had handles put in the 3 axes and after Sharpening them with a file fell[ed] the two trees which I
intended for the two canoes, those trees appeared tolerably Sound and will make canoes of 28
feet in length and about 16 or 18 inches deep and from 16 to 24 inches wide. ... The horses
being fatigued and their feet very Sore, I shall let them rest a fiew days. during which time the
party intended for to take them by land to the Mandans will dress their skins and make
themselves clothes to ware, as they are nearly naked.
July 21, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
...northern branch of Maria's river ....being convinced that this stream came from the
mountains I determined to pursue it as it will lead me to the most no[r]thern point to which the
waters of Maria's river extend which I now fear will not be as far north as I wished and
expected. ... we pursued it untill dark and not finding any timber halted and made a fire of the
dung of the buffaloe. ... our provision is nearly out, ...
July 24, 1806
William Clark
Sergt. Pryor informed me that it would be impossible for the two men with him to drive on the
horses after him without tireing all the good ones in pursute of the more indifferent to keep them
on the course. that in passing every gangue of buffalow several of which he had met with, the
loos horses as soon as they saw the Buffalow would imediately pursue them and run around
them. All those that [had] speed sufficient would head the buffalow and those of less speed
would pursue on as fast as they could. ... This disposition in the horses is no doubt owing to
their being frequently exercised in chasing different animals by their former owners the Indians
as it is their Custom to chase very species of wild animal with horses, for which purpose they
train all their horses. ... H. Hall who cannot swim expressed a Willi[ng]ness to proceed on
with Sergt. Pryor by land, and as another man was necessary to assist in driveing the horses,
but observed he was necked, I gave him one of my two remaining Shirts a par of leather Legins
and 3 pr. of mockersons which equipt him completely and sent him on with the party by land to
the Mandans. ... Saw emence number of Deer Elk and buffalow on the banks. Some beaver. I
landed on the Lard Side walked out into the bottom and Killed the fatest Buck I every saw; ...
So it is we have a great abundance of the best of meat. we made 70 Ms. to day ...
July 25, 1806
William Clark
...arived at a remarkable rock situated in an extensive bottom ... this rock I ascended and from
it's top had a most extensive view in every direction. This rock which I shall call Pompy's
Tower is 200 feet high and 400 paces in secumpherance and only axcessable on one Side ...
The nativs have ingraved on the face of this rock the figures of animals &c. near which I
marked my name and the day of the month & year.
July 26, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
...we set out biding a last adieu to this place which I now call camp disappointment.
I discovered several indians on the top of an iminence just above them who appeared to be
looking down towards the river I presumed at Drewyer. about half the horses were saddled.
this was a very unpleasant sight, however I resolved to make the best of our situation and to
approach them in a friendly manner. I directed J. Fields to display the flag which I had brought
for that purpose and advanced slowly toward them, about this time they discovered us and
appeared to run about in a very confused manner as if much allarmed, their attention had been
previously so fixed on Drewyer that they did not discover us untill we had began to advance
upon them, ... I told the two men with me that I apprehended that these were the Minnetares of
Fort de Prarie and from their known character I expected that we were to have some difficulty
with them; that if they thought themselves sufficiently strong I was convinced they would
attempt to rob us in which case be their numbers what they would I should resist to the last
extremity prefering death to that of being deprived of my papers instruments and gun and
desired that they would form the same resolution and be allert and on their guard.
... the bluffs are so steep that there are but few places where they could be ascended, ... in this
bottom there stand t[h]ree solitary trees near one of which the indians formed a large
semicircular camp of dressed buffaloe skins and invited us to partake of their shelter which
Drewyer and myself accepted and the Fieldses lay near the fire in front of the she[l]ter. ...
I told these people that I had come a great way from the East up the large river which runs
towards the rising sun, that I had been to the great waters where the sun sets and had seen a
great many nations all of whom I had invited to come and trade with me on the rivers on this
side of the mountains, that I had found most of them at war with their neighbours and had
succeeded in restoring peace among them, that I was now on my way home and had left my
party at the falls of the missouri with orders to decend that river to the entrance of Maria's river
and there wait my arrival and that I had come in surch of them in order to prevail on them to be
at peace with their neighbours particularly those on the West side of the mountains and to
engage them to come and trade with me when the establishment is made at the entrance of this
river to all which they readily gave their assent and declared it to be their wish to be at peace
with the Tushepahs whom they said had killed a number of their relations lately and pointed to
several of those present who had cut their hair as an evidince of the truth of what they had
asserted. ... I feel into a profound sleep and did not wake untill the noise of the men and indians
awoke me a little after light in the morning.
July 27, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
... J. Fields who was on post had carelessly laid his gun down behi[n]d him near where his
brother was sleeping, one of the indians ... sliped behind him and took his gun and that of his
brother unperceived by him, at the same instant two others advanced and seized the guns of
Drewyer and myself. J. Fields seeing this turned about to look for his gun and saw the fellow
just runing off with her and his brother's he called to his brother who instantly jumped up and
pursued the indian with him whom they overtook at the distance of 50 or 60 paces from the
camp s[e]ized their guns and rested them from him and R. Fields as he seized his gun stabed the
indian to the heart with his knife the fellow ran about 15 steps and fell dead; of thjis I did not
know untill afterwards, having recovered their guns they ran back isntantly to the camp;
Drewyer who was awake saw the indian take hold of his gun and instantly jumped up and
s[e]ized her and rested her from him but the indian still retained his pouch, his jumping up and
crying damn you let go my gun awakened me ... I then drew a pistol from my holster and
terning myself about saw the indian making off with my gun I ran at him with my pistol and bid
him lay down my gun which he was in the act of doing when the Fieldses returned and drew up
their guns to shoot him which I forbid as he did not appear to be about to make any resistance
or commit any offensive act, he droped the gun and walked slowly off, I picked her up
instantly, Drewyer having about this time recovered his gun and pouch asked me if he might not
kill the fellow which I also forbid as the indian did not appear to wish to kill us, as soon as they
found us all in possession of our arms they ran and indeavored to drive off all the horses I now
hollowed to the men and told them to fire on them if they attempted to drive off our horses, they
accordingly pursued the main party who were dr[i]ving the horses up the river and I pursued
the man who had taken my gun who with another was driving off a part of the horses which
were to the left of the camp. ... being nearly out of breath I could pursue no further, I called to
them as I had done several times before that I would shoot them if they did not give me my
horse and raised my gun, one of them jumped behind and rock and spoke to the other who
turned arround and stoped at the distance of 30 steps from em and I shot him through the belly,
he fell to his knees and on his wright elbow from which position he partly raised himself up and
fired at me, and turning himself about crawled in behind a rock which was a few feet from him.
he overshot me, being bearheaded I felt the wind of his bullet very distinctly. ... we left one of
our horses and took four of the best of those of the indian's; while the men were preparing the
horses I put four sheilds and two bows and quivers of arrows which had been left on the fire,
with sundry other articles; ... I also retook the flagg but left the medal about the neck of the
dead man that they might be informed who we were. we took some of their buffaloe meat and
set out ascending the bluffs by the same rout we had decended last evening leaving the ballance
of nine of their horses which we did not want. ... no time was therefore to be lost and we
pushed our horses as hard as they would bear ... we passed a large branch ... which I called
battle river. ...we arrived at rose river about 5 miles above where we had passed it as we went
out, having traveled by my estimate compared with our former distances and cou[r]ses about 63
ms. ... after refreshing ourselves we again set out by moonlight and traveled leasurely, heavy
thunderclouds lowered arround us on every quarter but that from which the moon gave us light.
we continued to pass immence herds of buffaloe all night as we had done in the latter part of the
day. we traveled untill 2 OCk in the morning having come by my estimate after dark about 20
ms. ... my indian horse carried me very well in short much better than my own would have
done and leaves me with but little reason to complain of the robery.
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